Holley EFI Seminar at PRI 2019

Holley EFI Seminar at PRI 2019

Articles Blog


Alright, thanks for everybody coming, we appreciate
it, another great turnout, it’s been a really good year for Holley EFI and racing, a lot
of people won a lot of races, set a lot of records, I see some of you guys that have
done that here, we really appreciate it, we appreciate our customers, our dealers, and
everybody that supports it. I’m Doug, I’m not going to speak too long
here, Ryan is going to be putting on the seminar this year again, he did a great job last year
and hopefully, you find what Ryan says, something to learn and interesting, so appreciate it,
going to give it off to Ryan here. Thanks. Can everyone hear me fine? So I’ll just go ahead and get right into it. This year, we’re just going to start by going
over some of the new products and how they integrate with the Holley EFI software, some
of the things that we are going to cover is the USB to Cam dongle, the newer high flow
boost control solenoids, the ejector driver modules for external drivers, that’s for your
low impedance injectors, your big methanal injectors, Cam EGT modules, the Pro Dash and
some of the features that it has where it works with the Holley EFI now. The MSD Pro 600 ignition, I know that a few
of you in here, I see I have talked to you already about that, and then the smart wiring,
the Racepak V300 and using them on the Holley Can vs the third party Racepak protocol. After that we’ll talk a little bit about the
V5 software, we’ll go over the new Cam ignore feature, 300 frames per second logging, the
logging format change, we changed the naming convention on the logs. We’ll go over some of the stage injection
features of the V5, and we will cover the traction control. Traction control will actually be covering
the perfect pass, the act of speed management feature as well as comparative wheel speed
controls and how we recommend to do that and how we did it on Doug’s car actually. So the USB-Can dongle, it’s been around for
a while, it’s something that we started using on the Sniper’s, we used it on the Terminator
X, we know with V5, we’ve added it for V5 as well. What it does is it allows you to communicate
with the ECU via the cam bus as opposed to the USB port on the ECU. In most cases the USB port is going to be
faster and better, there are some instances where the USB-can is preferable, one is doing
firmware updates. I don’t know how many of you have done a firmware
update here but they take a while when you are using the USB. If you use the USB to cam dongle, the firmware
update in total takes under five minutes, it’s almost worth it just for that. Another thing it does is if you somehow damage
the USB port, hopefully, that never happens to you, but if it does, using this allows
you to still maintain full functionality of the ECU. Next up is the high flow boost control solenoids. This is something that we worked on, I think
we released it last year technically. We worked with our vendors to come up with
a higher flow valve than what the competitors on the market and what was standard available. From that, we ended up with a valve that flows
90% more than the standard 3 port valve that we sold previously and still sell. It flows 40% more than the comparable bullet
valves on the market. What that means is that if you are trying
to get all the boost immediately, if you are in a boost limited class, power limited class,
and you need to bring up your boost as fast as possible, these solenoids will allow you
to do it better than others. Another side benefit is typically you can
get better control of the system, they are also supported in Terminator X, it’s available
as a drop-down in V5. The injector driver modules, this was designed
to fill a need with basically the 700-pound billet atomizers is what made this product
come to market. It’s available, it can do 4:1, 8:2, and 10:2.5
amp drives and that’s just the peak and hold settings when you hear people talk about an
injector and they say, it’s low impedance, it’s one of these, it’s either a 4:1 or an
8:2 typically. Most of your bigger injectors from billet
atomizers are 8:2. Another thing that we did with this injector
driver is it allows you to hold the peek duration for half a millisecond or one millisecond. What that means is typically a peak and hold
injector will run up and as soon it sees the peak amperage it drops to the hold, so in
an 8:2, the second that you create eight amps in the circuit it drops immediately to two
amps. With this, it will hit eight amps, hold at
eight amps for either half a millisecond or one millisecond and then drop to the hold
setting. Where this really matters is on a 700-pound
injector. The 700-pound injectors will hit peak current
in most instances depending on voltage before the pental is fully open. So what that means is that the injector is
still opening and trying to spray more fuel while it is dropping to the hold current,
so the time that you want peak current and the most power going to the injector, it drops
out and goes into basically an idle mode. So adding a one millisecond peak hold fixes
that so now we are after the valve, the pental is fully open before we drop to the hold current. The injector driver module also has a test
fire mode so you can flip the dip switches on the back of it, pull the button down and
it will fire each injector for I believe one millisecond in a row sequentially so that
you can verify that your wiring is correct and that each injector is firing. It also has diagnostic outputs, and what this
is right now is there are two wires that you wire under the ECU and it will basically give
you varying voltages to tell you what the codes are. We are currently working on adding cam functionality
to this so that you will just be able to just plug in over the can and pull the diagnostics
that way. We also have a terminated harness that should
be releasing in the next month that will already have the super seal for the injector driver,
it will have the temp in metro pack that connects to our pre-made injector drive, injector harness,
and it will also have the ECU connectors to plug into the J2B connector as designed in
the V5 stage injection that I will show you later. Our can EGT modules came out this year, we
have both an 8 channel and a single channel. Very very easy install on these is the biggest
selling point. There is one connector and then you just go
into the inputs and create your channels. The eight-channel module, as you would guess,
is pretty much for per cylinder exhaust gas measurement. The one channel is actually really good for
something like a methanal turbo car where you need a higher range on your IAT, it’s
also good for cylinder head temps, oil temps, pretty much most temperatures that you want
to measure you can use a thermal couple. If a thermister just doesn’t fit your needs
using one of the can EGTs with the right thermal couple is what you need. The modules are compatible with pretty much
any K-type thermal couple as long as it is ungrounded. You very rarely will see a grounded thermal
couple in our industry. It’s compatible with Racepak cells, a large
amount of the varying sensors, one of whom is pictured here as a cylinder head temperature. You can also find things like we have one
designed for IAT, we have one that is a patch that you pretty much can glue on to whatever
you need to get a temperature. These are also supported in Terminator X. A quick screenshot of how it looks in the
software, on the left you’ll see create an input and select cam as the type, name it
as you wish, and then on the right is the setup screen, you’ll go to the can device,
select eight-channel EGT or single-channel depending on what you have, select the can
channel, which bus you are on, which if you are on a Dominator you have the option of
can bus one or two. Critical that you get that right otherwise
it won’t work and also the can serial number, it is the other big thing that will be printed
on your device and you enter that in so that it knows where to find it and get the information
from it. Pro dash, both 12.3 and 6.86 have been released
this year one of the biggest things with them is they have a universal firmware, meaning
that you can plug it into a Sniper, Terminator X, or an HP Dominator, and it will work without
having to reflash it. One of the things that also came along with
that is you can now take an input that you’re logging to the dash, so some of you know that
on the back of the dash is a connector and you can hook up sensors either five volt or
thermistors to them and display them on the dash. Now you can take that information over can
and log it in the software, you can use it in an advanced table, it’s part of the inputs
like a native input would be. Also along with that is GPS information is
available in software via cam and them IMU information which would be your accelerator
and your gyro. There are up to 13 inputs that you can log
into the Holley software on one of the Pro Dashes and like I said already you can use
it in advanced tables. Quick picture of what that looks like, as
we showed earlier, you select cam as your type and you go to the setup screen and then
you’ll have the option of the Pro Dash IMU, GPS, inputs A or inputs B. This one is the IMU, you can see where your
options for it are the accelerometer axis, the gyro, and the tilt. And then I also show Pro Dash inputs A, that’s
inputs 1-8 on the dash. Input B is just the additionals 9-13. The MSD Pro 600 is another thing that we came
out with this year, it’s been a real hit, it works really well. It’s capable of 680 millijoules max output,
that’s not sustained, 600 millijoules sustained is what it will do and that’s days on end,
I’ve had it running at my desk at that, 7,000 RPMs and just left it for hours on end, it
gets warm to the touch but that’s it. It’s compatible with the power grid and a
profiler. Compatible with most EFI systems, we say most
because we haven’t tested all of them. Pretty much any EFI system that has individual
ESTE outputs, meaning it can run smart coils or run an LS or anything like that will be
able to work with this. It’s got two selectable power levels, it’s
basically a ground wire if you grounded it, it switches between high and low power. Low power is roughly 300 millijoules and high
power is defaulted at 600 millijoules. If you use it with the Holley EFI, you gain
the ability to use a table where you can set the power level based on either, basically
two axes of whatever you want, RPM, TPS, Map, Wheel speed if you want, anything. It has an AC spark profile that is unique
compared to the competition and an IGM one spark smart coil or ALDC. AC is a little more immune to cylinder pressures
as far as the spark duration, what that basically means is as your cylinder pressure goes up,
your spark duration doesn’t shrink as much as the DC profile would. Shown here is just the output setup on the
bottom, there is a new type in the software called MSD pro 600-8, that will enable all
of the settings for it. Below you have to set your axis for the power
table. On the left, you will see the system parameters
where it says ignition power on the farthest one down. Typically that will say well if you are using
another ignition type, we take that table and repurpose it for ignition power when used
with the pro 600. This is an example of the ignition power table,
as you can see it’s just a percent of total power in the table, I chose RPM and map for
the axis. We allow you to go to 105 percent in the table,
100% is equal to 600 millijoules, we give you a little bit over that if you want it
if you are not going to use it for sustained use. The minimum in the table is 30%, most people
aren’t really going to need this, this is more for your drag week type of guy or someone
with a very limited battery. If you have a small battery in the car this
ignition does pull a lot of amperages so you may want to lower the power level just to
save the power for the actual drag strip run. You can also increase past the 105% by using
an advanced table to additionally add more percentage to the table. It will allow you to enter obscenely large
percents but the pro 600 will limit itself at 680 if you go past it. We also have all of the diagnostics that come
with Holley EFI when using the Pro 600, this is just the example of all of them listed
out. You have your normal stuff like temperature,
battery voltage at the pro 600. To convert voltage and energy it is basically,
we say 600 millijoules. This is a measurement, you can watch it in
the data log and see that it is actually getting there. The fault mask is fault codes, typically that
thing should stay at zero, if it does not, in the instructions it is listed out to figure
out what it is and you can always call our tech department. Beyond that, we have misfire counters, spark
period, and efficiencies, these are basic feedback from the ignition. You have your spark period and your efficiency
which are both how long does it take for the first wave of the AC energy to get to the
coil and back, you can use that as a measure of how much load is on the ignition. Similar to efficiency, efficiency is the actual
percent of energy recovered at the converter for the next strike that can also be used,
which we’ll use both of those for more times than not is you are looking for trends. Run after run after run as you have your car,
you have your tune-up, you know what it’s supposed to do in every other way. You’ll look at these numbers and they should
be the same run to run to run. If they are not you can start chasing the
problem with a specific cylinder. If you see one cylinder suddenly have an efficiency
that’s way higher or lower than another, you need to start looking either at the engine
it’s self or the ignition system to see what is going on. The misfire counter is basically open load
detection, so if the spark period ends up way too long, it will start incrementing a
counter for that and you’ll know that you have basically a misfire or the gap is jumping
somewhere else other than the cylinder. So that one, the misfire counter is good for
the gross problem to just nail down which cylinder it is. Next is Racepak and Holley EFI. The universal EFI module used for connecting
Racepak to Holley EFI has in the latest version of it and in the latest version of Racepak
software has the latest ability to use a Holley can bus as opposed to having to select the
Racepak can previously. What this means is you no longer have to choose
on an HP if you are going to run a Racepak product or a Holley product. Previously it was an issue if you wanted to
run a smart wire on a Holley dash on an HP there was no good way to do it, so this fixes
that issue. As you can see here, this is just a picture
of the can busses, we have Holley standard and Racepak. Previously you would have to select Racepak
to use a Racepak product, now you do not, you can use Holley standard with it. This is just showing on the Racepak side when
you configure the universal EFI module, the selections you can see on the far right, it
is Holley Dominator Racepak which is the previous one. Holley Dominator V4 standard, which will work
with V4 or V5 with the exception of build 30 which is out of production at this point,
most shouldn’t be running it, and it will also work with Holley Sniper. Next up is the cam sync ignore after start
setting, you can see in the cam sensor type in the middle of the page we added new dropdowns
as single pulse, ignore cam after the start. What this does is it uses the cam sensor to
start up the engine, set the sequential notes at the firing order and basically gets you
running like it always has and then as soon as you exceed the crank to run RPM in the
software it will shut off the cam sensor and no longer look at it until you restart the
engine. So what this could mean is for all of you
guys who are going down the racetrack and have had a cam sensor issue in the past, it
used to shut off the motor, now it won’t. Now you will get back to the pits and get
started for the next run and it won’t start then is what that really means but if you
win your round, hopefully, part of your programs are warming up part of your car before the
next round and you’ll find it then with enough time to fix it. Currently, this is only available with a one
pulse per fire crank sensor, we don’t recommend that you use this for coil near plug, a lot
will, it will work fine, but the reason that we don’t recommend that is simply because
if you do lose a cam pulse along the run, you basically jump the firing order, so now
you will be one cylinder off in your firing order which usually ends up in a big boom. So this is something that we’ve had a lot
of requests for, I actually pushed for it myself, but it is something with a little
bit of risk so decide if it is right for your program before selecting it. Another thing that we did with V5 is we updated
the logging rate to allow for up to 300 frames per second. Along with that came much bigger logs, so
the next thing that we did was to change it so that when you create a log less than 60
seconds, it doesn’t overwrite its self. The way that we did that is that the former
log format, so on the left side you see it was then, this is the new log format so it
was the fifth day of December and it was 16:47 PM and 45 seconds. So by doing that you can now take a 15-second
log and you’ll end up with four logs in a minute as opposed to previously you would
end up with one log of the last 15 seconds. So that is the end of the slide show, from
there I would like to show you some of our traction control stuff and this is actually
as I said earlier, this is out of Doug’s car, he went to a no-prep race this year and decided
to try it out, so we decided to try something new and do a wheel speed traction control
combined with drive shaft speed so what I’m going to do is just poke through the calibration
a little bit, make sure that I decipher everything correctly and then we will look at the log
and see how it actually plays out on a run. So the first thing that we will do is we’ll
go to the traction ICF and we’ll just look through the settings here. We’ll see that he’s using the drive shaft
input of rear-wheel driveshaft RPM, he has a minimum driveshaft activation of 5 RPM and
a maximum of 12,000 RPM, which means below 5 RPM, no matter what we have in the tables
I’ll show you in a minute, it won’t do anything until it exceeds 5 RPM. His X-axis max time is eight seconds which
means that when we look at the tables it will only be eight seconds long and on the timer
port is one-tenth of a second, which means that one-tenth of the time of the trans brake
release it won’t take any action out of the driveshaft or the crankshaft curve no matter
what it is doing. Take a look at the crankshaft curve, we’ll
see that it is disabled, so it should not be doing anything in the data log when we
look at it. You see there is a curve in there, looks like
for one and a half seconds. One thing that I don’t know if you were thinking
about doing at the time or we talked about it but one thing people can do is, you can
use this to make sure that the engine RPM does what you expected it to do on a run. If you make some changes to your converter,
some bleeds or make any change that you are not sure where the RPMs are going to roll
over or how your converter is going to act or how that front part of the RPM is going
to move, you can put in what you want the engine RPM to be and use timing or a rev limiter
to control it and keep it there. With the driveshaft curve, see what he has
in here, so driveshaft is enabled, there is a base curve in here, so the base curve would
be most likely from another run, what you would actually want it to do is you would
import it in here and base all of your other curves off of it. So we can see he only goes to about 2.7 seconds
as you can see in the top left of the graph there is a little yellow box that shows the
time in the RPM of where your cursor is so I’m just hovering it over there saying it’s
2.7 seconds, if we go up to the top here we can see it at 2.7, it’s 3591 RPM. So what we will look at next, the retard A
curve which is your next first step of retard if traction control is activated and I’m actually
going to activate the deltas to see how much above the base curve it is. So it would appear that for the most part,
he is 75 RPM above the base curve so basically, if it goes 75 RPM over that baseline it’s
going to start pulling timing and it appears that it only does this for 2.86 seconds as
you can see here at 2.7 he effectively disables it by moving it way out of the way. So down here we’ll look at what he is doing. If you encounter that line, so what happens
if the drive shaft curve comes up and rolls through that line, meaning it gets above the
number in the table, which is 75 above something but the actual number is here so 1.02 seconds
if the driveshaft curve goes to 1608 RPM, it’s going to step out an amount of timing,
so we will come down here and look at 1.2 seconds and we will see that it will step
out four degrees of timing immediately if he exceeds that curve. Retard B will do the same thing, we’ll just
look at, looks like it’s roughly 200 to 150 over the base curve so it’s roughly double
the retard A since retard A was 75 and this one is 150 there is another 75 between them. Then retard B appears to be 15 degrees of
timing through the whole round, you can see they are both here. So what will happen then is, if you exceed
retard A line, you will step out four degrees immediately and then if the driveshaft continues
to accelerate towards the retard B line, it will start ramping the timing out towards
that max value. So for this example, we’ll say that you’ve
encountered wheel speed and retard A didn’t do anything to stop it and it is continuing
to spin up faster and faster. What will happen is the timing will go to
take four degrees out of whatever the base value is and then it will continue to ramp
it’s way down until it touches the retard B line, so it would take 15 out at this point
when it is on retard B at that timestamp. If it gets halfway between wheel speed starts
and stops to recover and it is just hovering between the two lines, the timing will just
hover between them and it will slowly bring it back in until here and then it will step
back to full-timing at that last bit. Lastly, there is the rev limit curve, which
is zero on this. Zero just ables the rev-limiter so Doug drives
a nitrous car, rev limiters tend to be bad when you are on nitrous so you don’t want
to use them. Otherwise what would happen is if you had
been using the rev limit curve it would then, if it passed retard B and it took all 15 degrees
out and it continued to go, as soon as it passed retard B, it would drop one cylinder
out of the car so you would have a rev limiter on one hole. If it continued to go and got about halfway
to, divide it up in fourths, we drop up to four cylinders so what will happen is by the
time hits the rev limiter curve it will be dropping four holes, so as you step through
each corridor between rev limit B and the rev limit curve, retard B and the rev limit
curve, it will drop one hole, one additional hole up to four by the time it hits the rev
limit curve. That part of the traction control is actually
proven to be pretty effective from what I have seen. So it looks like he is using it for about
two and a half seconds into the run and then just disabling it from there. So that is where, if you look we will go to
the outputs and we’re taking over and using the wheel slip configuration front first rear-wheel
speed. So what we did is we set up a wheel slip output
and what we did was we took a PWM output table, configured it, so this is now wheel speed
to traction control, we’re switching away from the drive shaft base for a minute. So what we did is we took front wheel speed
RPM and rear wheel speed RPM and what we did is we ran the math, it looks a little funky
in this table if you were to actually run the math of wheel diameters and everything
it would come out to each cell is equal in speed through the center here, so this one
we have rear-wheel driveshaft RPM at 3582 and front wheel speed RPM at 1015. If we ran the map those would both equal some
number 60 miles per hour, 120 miles per hour, ETC. But it would be equal, there would be no slip,
so that’s zero. Then what you can do from there is you can
very easily calculate how much slip there would be and fill the table in. One key on this is if you don’t fill these
negative values on the other side, it will always see slip because of interpolation,
so at some point, it’s always going to end up somewhere in the middle of these four cells
assuming no slip. So you are going to run right through the
center here and it’s going to take the average of all four cells. So if you have three zeros and one 9.1, you
are going to get some amount of slip detected. So you put the negative 9.1 out to make the
average go back to zero, so that is the one key to this table that you need to make sure
that you do, otherwise, it won’t work properly. So now we know wheel slip, we can calculate
it, it’s in the data log what do we do with it? We can go over to these advanced tables, I
believe we did a 2D on this one and we set up a timing offset, in this case with the
axis being front wheel speed RPM so basically undriven wheel speed and wheel slip, which
is from the PWM output table. What we then did was put a launch enable on
it so that we could start a timer, and then we used that timer to delay the start of this
traction control for two and a half seconds, we’ll see why in the log, but it’s because
the front wheel is in the air for some portion of the time before two and a half seconds
so it doesn’t work. Then you also have an RPM enable in it and
then in the table, you can see that based on the front wheel speed RPM and the slip
percentage, we chose a ramped in value to control the rear wheel speed so basically,
we are using this as a timing retard based on the slip percent, the more slips the more
we pull and also the faster we go, the more pulls to some extent. Now we can look at how that looks in the log. Does that log show ok? Can everyone see that? That’s worse? There, is that better? Ok. So what I have pulled up right now is just
throttle position and driveshaft speed. So we will zoom in on what looks like they
are on because it’s full throttle, and we’ll just have a look at the drive shaft curve. You see the time is already zeroed out, I
zeroed out the time based on the release all ready for us. You can see the drive shaft curve looks pretty
decent, there is a little wiggle here, there is some wiggle in here, a little ugly there
and then we got a big check and it looks like the wheel speed runs away and comes back. So let’s look at what happened. Well, the first thing you look at is the engine
RPM, what did the engine do during all of that? Well, it was pretty flat so something was
going on here, you know your RPM is going up and down, something is happening. It finally goes up for the shift, looks like
it shifts, goes a little, and then the RPM falls. So we’ll look at the first half of the run
first, which as we saw on the calibration it was based on driveshaft speed. So we’ll take our driveshaft curves, I’m going
to back up for one moment, I forgot to show you something. So on the driveshaft speed base, the time-based
traction control, you can take instead of inputs that take the table values and put
them in the log for you so you can look at what the table was, what your actual driveshaft
was in the log together. And what you do to do that is you set up an
internal type for the data log, go to configure, and then you’ll select one of the TC_ASM parameters,
there is _DS for the driveshaft and then it will label retard curve A, B, or rev limit,
and that is just each one from the table and then the same with CS for crankshaft curve. So what I did was I pulled up retard A and
B from the table and they are overlayed with the same scaling as the rear wheel speed so
that you can look at them and overlay them together. So we will zoom in a little more here. And you can’t see the one line really well. The retard A line, it’s basically running
through the driveshaft curve. So if we take and look at the driveshaft timing
offset, we can see that we are pulling timing throughout that entire first two and a half
seconds of the run effectively. So the traction control was working and making
sure his driveshaft curve did what he thought it should do on that run instead of letting
it run free. So you can see that it steps it out and then
also you can see in a couple of spots like here, it must have kept going a little bit,
so it started ramping the timing out further, you can see that it’s basically just trying
to control the driveshaft through the whole first spark port part of the run and you can
see that it turns off right here where the green line goes vertical. Now pretty much that’s right at the shift
and you can see that the shift appears to be what caused the big check and the loss
of control of the wheel. So the next thing to look at is ok, what did
the wheel slip percent look like? How did it do during the last half of the
run? So let’s just pull up the wheel slip percent,
I’ll actually back up here a little to the beginning of the run. So you can see the wheel slip is 0%, you can
see at launch we get an actual very large wheel slip percent at the pink line. This is due to the front wheel being in the
air, the front wheel is not moving, you think you got a ton of slip, which is why we don’t
allow it to do anything this early in the run. From there, it would appear, it catches, it
probably bounces if I were to guess, off the ground there again and then finally settles
in. As we go through we can see we’re showing
roughly 0 for the wheel slip percent through here. You can see right where the driveshaft checks
we get a wheel slip percent and through here it actually starts climbing up and we actually
get up to about 6% wheel slip. So we can look at the table and we can see
that it started pulling timing back here as soon as we allowed it to and as through the
checkmark here, you can see that it pulled a ton of timing out to try to control it and
then as we came up through here and pulled more timing out to get it back under control
again it actually brought it back in. Moving back up again, look at the rear wheel
speed, without looking at all of the data you would think it looks pretty good right
up until here. After looking at it you realize that we actually
maintained the wheel speed through here with traction control and then again, using a different
method we managed to get it back under control through here. And one other thing I would like to show you
is the stage injection for V5. So in V5, how many of you have done multiple
injectors, two sets, three sets of injectors? A decent amount, ok, cool. So in V4, you used to have to do it by selecting
three injector sets, we’ll show you that real quick here. What you would do is, you used to go set three
injector sets, you would set your injectors to the proper settings. You take the second set for two injector sets
and you effectively zero them out. Then you set up the third set and you’d have
a duty cycle for activation so it would slowly ramp in the injectors, you didn’t have precise
control over how much it sprayed when you’d just say when to turn on the second set and
they will meet at the end when they are both flatlined out spraying everything they can. The reason that we use the three injector
sets was it allowed us to turn on the eight and two amp mode like we talked about in the
injector driver earlier inside the ECU. By telling it it had two injector sets on
the first set of injectors it was running an 8 and 2 amp mode. You need this when you are running a700 pound
injector or one of the other big atomizer injectors and that was the way to do it prior
to V5. So to take care of that mess, in V5 we went
and added the custom injection type. Now you just select the number of injector
sets, you go to configure and then you set up each injector set individually and we will
show you a table in a moment where you can actually select what to do with each injector. So for this case, I’m just going to act like
it’s a twin-turbo car, we’re going to set two sets to 700. One thing on the first injector set, so I
just round injector set 1 at the top here, eight injectors, sequential firing mode, you
can adjust this stuff so it will be pretty nice for you dual fuel guys or blower stuff,
you can actually do some interesting things to make them work for that as well. And then the biggest thing here when doing
a single set of 700s specifically is it automatically fills in this information. You see it says custom with a peak current
of 8.75 and a hold current of 2.5 and then this peak time out parameter is set to five
milliseconds. What this is is like we talked about previously,
with the injector driver box we were able to hold at a peak current for an additional
amount of time and that was programmable and we were able to do that when we designed the
product. With the injector driver inside the ECU, we
don’t have the ability to set a hold at the peak current. So what we do is we tell it to target a peak
current that the injector won’t hit. So the injector will only hit 8 milliseconds
or 8 amps, we then tell it the peak time amount, if you never hit your peak current of 8.75
amps, what di you do, you wait five milliseconds then drop to the hold anyway. This accomplishes effectively the same thing
as the injector driver, it’s why we do it, it’s why it is that way, leave it, don’t set
it to eight and two unless you are running a smaller injector like a 325 or a 500 maybe. Now down here you also have your use for,
so for each injector set you have the ability to use it for the prime shot, cranking fuel,
or individual cylinder corrections, or not depending on what you are doing. Some applications, if you have a bunch of
injectors in a plenum, above a blower, something like that, you may not want to use them for
individual cylinder correction. And for the second set, we’ll go through and
do the same thing, you’ll notice that there is no driver’s side set up on the second set,
that’s because with this method it requires that you use one of the injector driver boxes
and that is so we can have sequential control of the second set of injectors. One other downfall of the V4 method, the previous
method that we showed you where you lie and say there are three injector sets, is that
the second set of injectors shares four drivers so you have paired injection. Now we did some trick stuff so that your cylinder
trim and everything works properly, it worked really well, but this way you have a driver
for each injector and you can trim that down and do everything that you need and you can
actually do some other trick stuff with different injector strategies and other things like
that now because of it. So, since there is no driver setup and we
use the driver box, we need to know how to wire it. So we go to the Pin map and previously there
were view injectors, you would wire them up with the old method to these four injector
outputs. You can see, since we selected custom and
set up two injector sets, it says not in use. We don’t wire to these. We go to the view outputs and we look at connector
J2, you can see that the drivers are there on the PW- output. So when you are wiring the injector driver
box or the new harness we are coming out with, it will plug in and use these eight outputs. If you select three injector sets it will
take the next eight and use them. So you can run up to three sets of sequential
injectors using this new method. Once you have all of that setup you can go
to your fuel table, you can see your main fuel table looks the same as it always has,
it’s pounds per hour VE, whatever your choice is, the numbers are the same, it’s your total
system flow as it always is. What’s new is the custom injector button. If you click that, you’ll get fuel tables
for each set of injectors and what they are by default is a percent of the total fuel
flow, so a percentage of the main fuel table. So you may want 50/50 injection between the
primary and secondary set on a twin-turbo car, if you are a blower car maybe you are
going to do it by percent and do 80% above the blower or below the blower and 20% on
the other side. So all you do is just highlight the table
and select the value you want. You can also change it to view it in fuel
flow so you can actually look at the pound per hour going into each set of injectors
or we also added injector duty cycle so you can have an idea of what duty cycle you are
running each injector set at. So depending on your preference and what you
are trying to accomplish, one of those three modes should give you the information that
you are looking for. Anything else on that Doug? Dual fuel? Yeah, and one of the benefits of being able
to do this is that you can do dual fuel, which I didn’t mention. Which in that case you might just go, you
have a small set and a big set, gas and methanal gas and E85, whatever it may be and as you
get into boost and RPM you might just take and take this base percent and you might be
100%, it would be 0 on that. 0% on the big injectors and then ramp them
up to 100% in boost, thus you are switching fuels than at that point as long as you have
two fuel systems. If you need to do some offsets for the different
fuels, there is always the advanced tables as well so that you can offset target values
for timing or fuel base fuel flow if it’s flex-fuel you might have a flex-fuel sensor
in there that you can use the advanced tables to offset each set of injectors as well. So one of the things we added in the advanced
tables was a new table type which is an injector set 1, 2, or 3 fuel multiplier. So you can choose something to modify a specific
injector set on. So if you have an EGT or a wheel speed or
something that you want to put more fuel in one set of injectors, you can use one of these
and an advanced table to do just that. Other than that I think we have a little time
for some questions if anyone has something on what we have gone over, in a few minutes
here I’ll probably turn it over to Tom Kise to tell you about our training that we offer
in Bowling Green. Yes, sir. Yes. Yes, what you would do in that case, you can
either manually enter them, or if you have a second cal, you’ll import it and then you
can use the compare feature, so what we will do is we will take this one, it’s got some
IO in it. Hit file, so this one is already twin-turbo
cal. What I’ll do, I’ll show you something that
you can do with the comparison function. So we will add an individual config IO, MSD
Pro 600 channels. Alright, it’s not going to let me do it in
this cal because I have too much stuff set up. So what I’m doing is I’m just finding a calibration,
I’m going to add the Pro 600 to it, going to save it, we’re just going to call it Pro
600 IO, and we’ll go back to the previous cal that we were using, and what I’m going
to do is open the comparison feature, going to open that comparison file, we’ll call that
Pro 600 IO that we just created, and then under the IO we’ll go to the inputs and we’ll
scroll down here to where we added all of these other ones, you can see the volt number
is a difference. So what we can do is then click on it, copy
to base, roll through that, and if we go to the inputs now, you’ll see that they’ve been
added to your calibration for you. And you can do that with any of the parameters
in there, so if you’ve got two or three tunes at the race track or you have some good power
management, maybe you cleaned up the base fuel table in one of them but you want to
go back to your timing retard, you can open that up and just copy it in real quick that
way too. Yeah, there is a lot of power in this thing
and it can do a lot. We allow up to four calibrations to be imported
if we go to the fuel table here, look at the base table values, you’ll see that we show
the difference in the axis values and we’ll also show a difference in the table’s values. So right now the table is set to show the
comparison values, look at the base values, we can look at the delta, or we can look at
the percent difference. And then the same with axis values, we can
look at the comparison, the delta, or the percent. We can also change the heat mapping, which
depending on your color of choice works or doesn’t well. There you go. So now that kind of shows some of the difference
for you. You can just turn it right off too if you
don’t like it. Which, I should also note that it is a feature
everywhere in the software now. So if you right-click on a table, you can
enable or disable the heat map and then also if you would like to add different colors
you can do that anywhere in the software now. Does that answer your question? Cool. How are yall doing? Can you all hear me in the back? If I use a microphone you all will need earplugs,
got to talk a little loud is what I’ve been told, I don’t know what they mean by that,
but I tend to boom a little bit. Anybody in here been through the Holley EFI
training course with me at all? A couple of you guys have been. Raise your hand if you feel that it has added
value to your program to learn EFI. So we appreciate that. There is a lot of folks that don’t know that
we offer factory to direct EFI training for the Holley EFI systems, we’ve actually been
doing it since 2013. As the system is growing in advance the classes
have as well, including a change for 2020 where previously if you were to take all three
tiers it was five days, we’ve pretty much for the lack of a better term, we’ve added
ten pounds of turds in a five-pound sack with the system’s capabilities, which has expanded
so the curriculum is shifting a little bit in 2020, the tier one class is going from
one day to two, so if you were to come in and take all three tiers it is six days of
training. Each tier is a cost of $299, includes your
manuals, we feed you pretty darn good when you are in there and I’m going to try to impart
as much whether useful or useless wisdom however you see fit that is in my head and to your
brains in the time that I have you guys. The classes primarily are hosted in Bowling
Green, Kentucky in our cooperate headquarters, I hold the classes at the National Corvette
Museum, it’s a pretty nice little environment to have the classes at now. I have been getting a lot of folks asking
me about classes. Some guys have noticed that the 2020 schedule
is out, we are actively taking registrations. The goal is to have a class as well as we
usually do at EFI University with Ben Straighter and his group, I have not been able to meet
up with him yet, I usually talk to him at SEMA, I did not go this year, so at some point
this weekend I will meet up with Ben, we’ll try to hammer that out so that you guys that
are looking to do it west coast, I hope to have dates for that posted here by the end
of January. So if you guys are asking about it, we’ve
had a lot of calls that have gone into tech, we’re working on it, we just don’t have the
dates yet for that. If you are new to Holley EFI, you don’t really
have to be concerned coming into classes if you are new to Holley EFI in general. We pretty much start at the basics, so the
first class is what I call tier one, it’s going to be a two-day class, it covers basically
on system overviews, wiring practices, system setup, general programming, we pretty much
focus on the plug and play type of installations. So if you have an LS engine, we’re going to
cover plug and play ignition types, single injector sets, we don’t go way down the rabbit
holes, we’ve kind of identified rabbit holes within that class. Some of the curriculum changing in 2020 from
the tier two-class if you guys have taken it and you are looking to come back, we do
get a lot of guys who do retake the classes over the traction control, I apologize, not
the traction control but the drive wire throttle control, transmission control, and data logging
is moving into the tier one class, advanced tables are going to be moving into the tier
three class and what that’s going to allow me to do is slow the tier one pace down a
little bit and so it’s not as just wide open throttle as it has been and also I’m going
to be slowing down the pace of tier two, which the goal of that is to allow me to spend a
little bit more time on custom inputs or outputs because I’m assuming that Ryan has covered
some of that. There’s definitely a lot of room in there
to have discussion, the problem is that the way that the class was and everything was
added, I didn’t have the time to get as in-depth as I wanted to. So when we get into tier two, it’s going to
get into some of the stuff that Ryan had talked about utilizing, the multiple injector sets,
custom ignition types, custom IO, a lot of the outside of the box and things that you
can do with the system capabilities that are in there. It’s a more advanced discussion, more in-depth
stuff, some engine physics, tuning principals, theory, a process that you probably would
go through. The tier three class is going to primarily
be power adder based and advanced. That’s where we’re going to be getting into
the boost control, dealing with nitrous control, water meth, the advanced tables, the new internal
active speed management, some of the traction control based stuff is in the tier three class
and I’ve already been and I’m sure you guys have two when you were asking me about the
electronic waste gates and when we will get a better handle on that and I have been asked
that and I have no clue how many times there this weekend, so that will be integrated in
there as well. How many of you guys have experience with
PID tuning? Like PID boost. That’s one of those things that I can sit
up here and draw and put charts on the board all day long but until you actually put your
hands on it, you do hands-on with PID tuning, understand cause and effect, it’s something
that eludes a lot of people and that’s one of the things in the tier three-class we spend
quite a bit of time on, is you all get your turn at PID tuning, on boost control, and
I have a little bit of a different approach if you guys have already been through it,
we start by having it all screwed up, so we teach you how to identify the anomalies and
the cause and effect of the things that aren’t right, which makes it a lot easier for you
to take things that aren’t functioning properly and go backwards into making it correct. If you can figure out how to take something
that is screwed up and fix it, it makes starting it the right way and approaching it from the
right angle a whole lot easier, so that’s one of the things that is tied in there. All of the classes for 2020, the tier two
and the tier three classes, the price hasn’t changed at $299, the tier one did go up a
little bit. The registration is online, if you go to Holley’s
website, you go under support, there’s a link in there for training events, it will have
the current schedule, it will show you how many seats are available and there is a direct
online link. I have some cards up here that have contact
information for us at the training department as well as 2020 schedules and a printed overview
of the classes if any of you are interested in getting some of that but you can simply
go on, sign up on your laptop, you can sign up on your cell phone, we’ve made it pretty
intuitive and straight forward. If you sign up for a class, this is going
to sound kind of silly but you are going to get an email and your email is going to be
your receipt and an overview and there are way too many people that I have dealt with
that don’t like to read emails. Read it. Because I get calls all of the time, what
time is the class? Where do I got to be at? Any local hotels? Duh duh duh duh, directions do you have maps? If you click on the email and you open it
up there are links, you click on them there is hotel information, some partners, are overviews,
links for automatic maps, all you will need to bring. As far as what you need to bring, I make it
pretty easy for you, you need to bring a laptop with Holley software and a pen. If you haven’t worked with Holley, it is PC
based. So it needs to be run on Windows. I recommend having the software on your computer
and getting familiar with it before you come to class, I have literally had folks show
up with no laptop, I have had guys show up with a Mac and I’m like, do you have the software? Yeah, hand out a flash, this won’t work. It’s like, well do you have a Mac version? No. What do I need to do? You see the guy next to you? Introduce yourself and get really chummy really
quick or you might need to go to BestBuy tonight, I don’t know what to tell you when you are
dealing with that. But you don’t have to bring a whole lot. The classes, if you take them all in six days
straight, pretty much every month I’ll have at least a tier-one or a tier two class essentially
every other month I do a tier-three as well. You can come in and do all three tiers at
one time, I call it the gauntlet. Has anybody here done the gauntlet with me? Yeah, how many of you guys after day three
your brain was mush? That guy is like, yeah, me. I don’t really recommend you do that, I do
have it that way because there are people because of travel restrictions, I get a lot
of guys who come in from overseas and did the classes throughout the year. If it is within your means to travel a couple
of different times to Bowling Green, then what I would recommend is to break them up. It’s not that bad if you do a tier one and
a two class back to back, because you can do them back to back, and then if you come
back for a tier three, one of the things I recommend is that you retake tier two and
tier three. Tier two is a really in-depth class, I guarantee
if you take the time and you take that class over again you are going to get a whole lot
more out of it than you did the first time around. There’s a lot of folks who come in and are
focusing in on one thing, they get back, get their hands, that’s great, but they didn’t
focus on some of the other stuff so it will kind of tie in. That’s kind of a general overview of what
we deal with within the class, any questions on the class stuff? You do, you have to start with tier one, there
was a time when I would let folks skip tier one, they would say, oh I’ve got a lot of
EFI experience, I’ve worked a lot with Holley, I’m good. And what I found was that 90% of those people
needed to take tier one because it derailed the heck out of tier two. I don’t care who you are, you need to start
with tier one. Now once you’ve completed a tier, let’s say
you did tier 1, tier 2, tier 3, now you want to come back and take tier 3 over again or
tier 2, you don’t have to start back with tier 1. Once you have completed a tier, a level, you
can come back and retake levels in any way, make, shake or form that you want to but you
do need to initially take them in series and you can do them back to back at the same trip. They vary on it, some overlap weekends to
try to get some overlap on weekends. Since it is down to 6 days it runs through,
so some of it is Monday through Saturdays, some of it overlaps, we’re going to try to
run some of them over some weekends and some splits. There are some that do fall on weekends. If any of you guys want some information on
training grab some cards, we’ll get that lined out for you. I know a lot of you guys are going out, it’s
a dying art, it’s an EFI deal, but I’ve had a lot of requests for a carburetor class so.

3 thoughts on “Holley EFI Seminar at PRI 2019”

  1. wait whaaaa?! I can do a dual fuel setup with gas/meth now and it transition back and forth smoothly without popping or sputtering?! oh man i need to get more info on this!

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